Now that you got your printer up and running and spitting out calicats like there's no tomorrow, you might be inclined to do a firmware upgrade to get the latest and greatest. When it comes to stepper drivers, best available right now is the TMC2209. There are no new features in Marlin 2.x just yet, but probably there will be in the future as more 32bit only content evolves. So, when I heard that about the, With Black Friday around the corner and the popular 11.11 sale, I think its a good idea to have a buying guide for some of. You are using an out of date browser. They also give a lot of feedback to the firmware so it can also adjust various things on the fly. This will grant access to printing more specialized materials but could create issues for the more basic ones like PLA.
Many people online will recommend geting a flexible spring steel sheet covered in a layer of PEI. I though I can put some mangets under the bed to keep the spring steel on top of the Ultrabase and test it like that (just like it works on Prusa printers). If your a bit OCD like me and like to keep things organized, you can print yourself some lables that can be atached to the cables inside your 3D printer to make them more easy to recognize so you don't mix them up. As explained in the 3D printer overview, Artillery printers run on Marlin 1.x firmware (1.1.9 to be more precise). SKR 1.3 Upgrade for Sidewinder X1 covered by 3dprintbeginner is a detailed guide on how to install the BTT SKR board. All of the modded files are can be downloaded here. But dont go for the steel nozzles just yet as their main purpose is printing abrasive materials which you will not be doing any time soon. And now I'm glad I did and a bit sorry it took me so long to do it. Top gerne wieder. You should run your printer for a couple of weeks to make sure it works fine in the default configuration. Upgrade went well, for now nothing has blown up! The default fan shroud is fine in most situations but it does have a small flow derived from the fact that it blows all the air from one direction. At the moment theese boards dont bring anything ground breaking to the table but as Marlin 1.x firmware is no longer developed this is more of a future proof upgrade. Read more about this in the Review Guidelines. Make your own PEI 3D printer bed and get every print to stick! Budget 3D Printer Battle: Voxelab Aquila vs Artillery Hornet vs Ender 3 V2, How to Install a Magnetic PEI Sheet Artillery Hornet Print Surface Upgrade, Artillery Hornet IdeaMaker Profiles: PLA, PETG, TPU, Artillery Hornet Review: Budget 3D Printer from Artillery. My only complain so far with the default Ultrabase-like bed surface was the fact that you have to wait a lot for it to cool down so it can release the prints, and even at room temperature (24C) I had a hard time removing my PLA ones. The TFT can be updated via a SD Card (16Gb or less), so it's a bit easier. The Lack tables are cheap but also hallow inside so I had to add some 3D printed L shaped brackets to all the legs for more stability. But feel free to experiment with the designs you find on thingiverse and see what works for you. There are no new features in Marlin 2.x just yet, but probably there will be in the future as more 32bit only content evolves. There is no need for extra cooling of the printers electronics as the temperature inside does not go over 40C which is fine as most components start having issues only above 50C. I wrote a detailed guide on How to setup a BLTouch probe on your Artillery printer. In order to update your mainboad's firmware you need to open the printer and disconnect your TFT from the mainboard by unpluging it's ribbon cable at one of the ends (whichever one has less glue on it). I built myself an adapted version of the Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE - Ikea Lack table with modified top supports to which I added 60mm in height to match the height of the Genius. I though I can put some mangets under the bed to keep the spring steel on top of the Ultrabase and test it like that (just like it works on Prusa printers).
I know the current difference between the defaults fans and the new ones are only 0.1A, but better safe than sorry, I prefer to ask experimented people first, hope this kind of question doesn't annoy anyone. Because the printers use an 8bit board there is no real advantage to using Marlin 2.x as all the features the board can handle are implemented in the 1.x version. Please try again. Here is a list of all Trinamic motor drivers and the explanation of the various technologies used for each of them. This commit does not belong to any branch on this repository, and may belong to a fork outside of the repository. But don't think that adding a bed probe will magically solve your leveling issues as unfortunately is not a straight forward process, it requires some calibration and a firmware update for both the mainboard and the TFT. Ging alles sehr schnell. My only complain so far with the default Ultrabase-like bed surface was the fact that you have to wait a lot for it to cool down so it can release the prints, and even at room temperature (24C) I had a hard time removing my PLA ones. A good comparison between different shroud models can be found in the video What is the BEST fan for your Sidewinder X1 3d printer?. One way to make your printer blend in your living room is by building an enclosure. I will list a few of the things noticed during my first weeks of using the felxible PEI sheet: You can get this kind of spring steel PEI sheet from Amazon, Aliexpress, Banggood, your local retailers etc. So do yourself a favor and order some good quality nozzles to have handy. prefixes Great article explaining why Marlin 1.x is enough for our printers: Artillery X1 and Genius: Why Haven't I Done a Marlin 2.x.x Firmware yet? After that you connect your printer to a PC and use Prusa Slicer to upload the .hex firmware to the mainboard. The Cura plugin even allows you to monitor the webcam (if you have one on your PI) and control your printer. Creality CR-10 3d printer review Large format, quality output, at a low price! Great article explaining why Marlin 1.x is enough for our printers: Artillery X1 and Genius: Why Havent I Done a Marlin 2.x.x Firmware yet? https://www.alien3d.us/, Europe: Unfortunately just placing magnets on the sides is not enough to keep the spring steel sheet flat as the middle tends to deform while heating. I spent about 4 days trying to tune my slicer settings and the presure of the extruder idler lever until I decided to replace it with the spare provided with the printer. How to setup a BLTouch probe on your Artillery printer, PTFE lined heatbreak with an all metal one, Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE - Ikea Lack table. Fear not, there is a much better way of doing things!
Does that means I can go up to 42A for both fans without risking damaging the board? 3dprintbeginner Artillery Genius Firmware, Waggster Firmware for Artillery Sidewinder The bed on the Genius is rather small and leveling it is easy enough so that it does not really require a leveling probe.
If it went well, could you dm a link to the fans you used? Upgrading the firmware will not magicaly solve your problems with the machine (if you have any) and wont make your prints any better (whith some exceptions like Linear Advance). Another feature is StallGuard4 which does load measurement so it can detect when the motor is not moving or has dificulties in moving. They are basically everywhere.
I used our 3DN Simplify 3D profiles @ 0.16 using the dead on match for the Hornet's color, Kodak PLA. https://www.happy3dthai-artillery.com/, US : Overhang quality drastically improved, at the cost of silence (but maybe my fans aren't of the best quality). JavaScript is disabled. Fear not, there is a much better way of doing things! It features StealthChop2 which makes your printer even quieter belive it or not, and makes you wanna replace your extruder fans with something silent cause thats all you will be hearing from now on. What is the BEST fan for your Sidewinder X1 3d printer? Of course the plexiglass panels are now 500mm in height instead of the 440mm specified in the guide.
This will create more stringing on the back of your print when using materials such as PETG that loves to string. As explained in the 3D printer overview, Artillery printers run on Marlin 1.x firmware (1.1.9 to be more precise). I can't really recommend it since I cannot compare with others but so far it's been really good to me. https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-GEN_L/wiki/MKS_GEN_L_V1, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5214724. Upgrading the firmware will not magicaly solve your problems with the machine (if you have any) and won't make your prints any better (whith some exceptions like Linear Advance). After that everything magicaly worked like it should have from the begining. 3D Printed Tardis with Arduino Lights and Sounds, Anet A8 Review Budget ($200 or less!) The only downside is that you wont get any feedback on the TFT while using OctoPrint, except for the nozzle and bed temperatures. Get yourself a Raspberry PI and install OctoPrint.
https://3dplady.de/ - Official Artillery 3D partner for Germany, https://www.abs-3d.de/ - Machined aluminium print beds. Most of them include an instalation guide and also a TFT firmware companion. https://3dprinterdele.dk/ Unfortunately just placing magnets on the sides is not enough to keep the spring steel sheet flat as the middle tends to deform while heating. https://www.3d-dez.de/ - Artillery distributor Germany Should you need out of warranty replacement parts (or just dont want to wait for Artillery to send them to you), here is a list of suppliers of original Artillery Sidewinder and Genius spare parts across the world: International: Just keep in mind that since the shroud will be close to the nozzle you have to print it in PETG or better yet ABS or ASA. So do yourself a favor and order some good quality nozzles to have handy. Learn more about earning points with eBay Mastercard, - eBay Return policy - opens in a new tab or window, - eBay Money Back Guarantee - opens in a new tab or window. 3D-Nexus (3DN) Printer firmware for Sidewinder X1 and Genius, 3dprintbeginner Artillery Sidewinder Firmware ABL Sensors? And the isolation underneath the bed heating silicone element is not helping with cooling (but can't argue with it's pro's during printing).
The default fan shroud is fine in most situations but it does have a small flow derived from the fact that it blows all the air from one direction. You can also get them textured if you want and even double sided (one side flat and the other textured).
Main reason you want to upgrade your firmware are the new features. Here are several firmware available, all based on Marlin. Just keep in mind that since the shroud will be close to the nozzle you have to print it in PETG or better yet ABS or ASA. Mine is Eryone Magnetic Flexible Printing Surface and I got it from Amazon. Both Prusa Slicer and Ultimaker Cura can connect remotely to the OctoPrint server and be used for printing. https://www.printaplenty.co.uk/ I had to design a custom fan duct, if you want to use it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5214724 The fans I bought are basic cheap 5015 radial fans, I bought them on Amazon because next-day delivery, but I guess there are similar or best ones on Aliexpress, etc. This means no print time, no pause and no way to abort the print from the TFT in case something goes wrong. You can check the, If youve been a regular visitor on my blog, then you know Im somewhat of an Artillery fan. They also give a lot of feedback to the firmware so it can also adjust various things on the fly.
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